I hear quite often people asking for advice on places to see when they have a short layover in Istanbul. Istanbul is a city between Europe and Asia, and lots of international routes stop there, so it is no wonder that this question comes up so often. I decided to fill in this gap 🙂
I wrote this post when Ataturk Airport was the main one in Istanbul. Now there is a new airport, and the ways of getting to the center of Istanbul have changed and take much more time. But the things to do during the layover are still the same 🙂 Don’t worry, I will explain how to get to the historical center of Istanbul below.
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My personal opinion is that Istanbul is an absolutely stunning city, so you should definitely use the opportunity to see it. I do not think I will ever cease to admire its people, architecture, culture and food. But what makes it truly special is the atmosphere: I always feel like at home there, and I cannot really explain why.
How long should the layover be?
Well, unfortunately, I do not know how much time you have to spend in Istanbul between your flights, but it definitely must be more than 8 hours: it is important because getting to and from the city might take up to 4 hours, it really depends on the transportation method you select. As I have visited Istanbul only when Ataturk was the main airport, I don’t know how much time exactly is needed now for getting to Sultanahmet: the distance from the airport to Sultanahmet is around 53 km, so it’s definitely more than 1 hour.
According to the official airport bus website, the journey from the airport to the city center will take about 1,5 hours in one direction, maybe, more, depending on the traffic. Which means you will need, most likely, more than 3 hours just to get to/from the city center. Consider these planning your layover.
Still, Google claims that by car it takes around 1 hour 40 minutes to get to Sultanahmet: it may be faster or slower depending on the traffic.
When you calculate the remaining time, consider passport control time, and the baggage control when you come back to the airport, which means an additional queue. If you didn’t know, there is a baggage control at the entrance to the airport, and then again inside the terminal before the gates.
Anyway, let’s suppose that you have more than 8 hours of layover in Istanbul. I made two different routes: the first one, which I would call a classical route, includes visiting the major tourist attractions of Istanbul as the Blue Mosque, Topkapi and Hagia Sophia, and is perfect for first timers in the city. The second one will take you to other major sights, so, obviously, it would be better to opt for this one if you have already been to Istanbul.
1. The classical route
Like I mentioned before, this route includes visits to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi. So, let’s start with the most important thing.
1.1. How to get to the historical center of Istanbul
This part is clear if you take a taxi: you just tell the address and they drive you there. Try to get the official taxi at the airport, and be ware that its colour designates its luxury class. According to the airport’s website, the average price of a taxi ride to Sultanahmet is 350 Turkish liras (around 19,3 USD/EUR), but some additional fees like toll fees can be collected.
Another way to get to Sultanahmet is by bus. It is my understanding that HAVAIST buses run to the historical center of Istanbul and it’s supposed to take around 90 minutes. You will need HVIST-12 route: it will take you to Bayezid Square next to Bayezid II Mosque/Grand Bazaar, and from there you will have to get to the attractions on foot. The distance between the bus stop and Sultanahmet Square is 1,2 km, but if it’s too far, you can take tram T1.
According to the official airport bus website (you can see the route and timetables as well), the cost for a journey is 52 Turkish liras (around 2,8 USD/EUR): much-much cheaper than taxi 🙂 In addition, a tram trip will cost 15 Turkish liras (around 0,8 USD/EUR).
If you finish your visit to Istanbul at Grand Bazaar, just take the bus back to the airport at the same place: Bayezid II Mosque.
1.2. What to see in Istanbul
Let’s start with the famous Sultanahmet Square as it is the closest point of the interest (leave Grand Bazaar for later). The square was a hippodrome during the Byzantine times. There are some memorable monuments like the Serpentine column, Egyptian obelisk, German fountain, etc.
After spending some time on the square, go to the Blue Mosque. The entrance is free, but the queues might be really huge, so consider this when planning your route. There are some rules to obey if you want to go in: you will have to take off your shoes, so make sure you have a pair of socks with you, and have something to cover your shoulders, legs and head (for women). If you don’t have anything to cover yourself, the staff will offer you robes.
Keep in mind that it is a functioning mosque, and tourists are not allowed in during prayers. The prayers take place five times a day, you can check them here.
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It is time to move further: take the exit facing Hagia Sophia. You will cross a square with benches, palm trees and a fountain, and it is a perfect place for stunning pictures of these architectural wonders. There will be another queue at Hagia Sophia, and when you are inside, climb to the upper floor: the view from above is worth the effort. As it is a mosque now, not a museum anymore, so the entrance is free. As for the visiting times and clothes, the same rules as for the Blue Mosque apply.
In general, it will take around 2 hours to visit these two places, and much less if there are no queues, so you might have time to visit Topkapi Palace, the masterpiece of Ottoman architecture. The palace consists of 4 courtyards, and there is a museum inside with precious stones, so you will need around 2-3 hours to actually see it. And don’t forget about the harem: actually, it is the most beautiful part of the palace. In addition, you will get lovely views over Istanbul from the 4th courtyard.
The entrance fee to the palace and Hagia Irene Church is 320 Turkish liras and the Harem is 150 liras. There is a combined ticket for 420 Turkish liras that includes the palace itself, the harem and the church. The palace complex is closed on Tuesdays.
If you still have some time, pay a visit to the most famous market in Istanbul, Grand Bazaar, with seemingly endless shops with souvenirs, scarves, spices, lanterns, traditional delights, and many other things. Just keep in mind that it is closed on Sundays and religious holidays, and is usually open till 7 PM.
1.3. Where to eat in Istanbul
I am pretty sure you will be hungry when you get to the city center, so if the Blue Mosque is closed for prayers, I would suggest having a meal at Åžirvan Sofrasi. They serve traditional Turkish cuisine, the prices are reasonable, and the restaurant is not far from the Blue Mosque.
I am pretty sure you know that Turkey is famous for its coffee 🙂 If you crave a cup, here are some recommendations for coffee shops in Istanbul.
2. The alternative route
Another way of spending a short layover in Istanbul is this route that includes visiting Suleymaniye Mosque, Egyptian Bazaar, Galata Bridge and a tour of the Bosphorus.
2.1. How to get to Suleymaniye, Istanbul
Getting to the start of this route won’t be different from the one above. You do exactly the same: either get a taxi or take HVIST-12 bus to Bayezid II Mosque/Grand Bazaar. Here you take the street up to Suleymaniye, where this route starts.
On your way back to the airport, take the tram T1 at Kabatas (towards Bağcılar) station back to Bayezid II Mosque, and change to the airport bus.
The prices are the same: 52 Turkish liras for one journey on the airport bus, and 15 Turkish liras for a tram ride.
2.2. What to see in Istanbul
I have been to Istanbul several times, and visited the Blue Mosque several times, and considered it the most beautiful one in the city. Well, it was until I saw Suleymaniye.
Built by Suleyman the Magnificent, this one is by far the most stunning mosque in Istanbul. Its splendor is not in the façade, it is the interiors that keep amazing visitors. The colours are so bright and vivid, and there is light everywhere. After visiting the Blue Mosque, which is rather dark, it is hard to believe your eyes. And one of the courtyards offers nice views over Istanbul. Luckily, the entrance is free, but the same rules as for the Blue Mosque apply.
It is time to visit the Egyptian Bazaar, known otherwise as the Spice Bazaar. Follow the map, the bazaar is close to Suleymaniye: it will take you about 10 minutes on foot. This one is much smaller than the Grand Bazaar, and you will not see that variety here, but it is much cheaper. Again, you can find here lots of Turkish delights and souvenirs. And it is not so easy to get lost here as in the Grand Bazaar 🙂
From the Egyptian market head to the Yeni Mosque and Galata bridge. The bridge is a nice place for a panoramic view of Istanbul. And you will see lots of locals fishing there.
Frome here take tram T1 to the Kabatas pier for the Bosphorus tour: it is too far to get there on foot. There are tours from the Eminonu pier at the Yeni Mosque, but it looks like they are very rare, so Kabatas is much better. We opted for the hop on & hop off tour that departs almost every hour and gets you a bit farther than the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge and then back (because of the pandemic the timetable may be different). The cost from Kabatas is 75 Turkish liras.
We did not get off the ferry at stops, but just continued the tour. The tour lasts for 1 hour and 45 minutes, and the views of both the Asian and European parts of Istanbul are amazing. On your way, you will get to see Dolmabahce, Rumelihisari, Ciragan Palace, Anadoluhisari, Beylerbeyi Palace. Just get something to cover yourself, as it might get chilly.
When you are back to Kabatas pier after the tour, again take tram T1 back to Bayezid II Mosque/Grand Bazaar and get on the airport bus.
2.3. Where to eat in Istanbul
I am not going to advise you a restaurant here, I am going to suggest something better 🙂 At the Galata Bridge in front of the Yeni Mosque you will see boats at the waterfront: they sell one of the most popular fast foods in Istanbul, balik ekmek (literal translation is fish bread). Basically, it is a piece of bread with freshly caught and cooked fish and onions. While it might not sound appealing for some, I really loved it. Get yourself a balik ekmek, a drink, pickles, if you want, sit on steps, eat and enjoy the view 🙂
And something else: do not go to the restaurants under the bridge! They are outrageously expensive, and I have read many stories of people complaining about the food quality. Some claimed they were charged more than they should have been.
Of course, during a short layover in Istanbul you will not see everything the city has to offer, but these routes cover some of its most interesting places. I hope you will enjoy Istanbul as much as I do 🙂
