Detailed 3 weeks in Spain itinerary including Madrid and Andalusia

I went to Spain in 2017 and spent exactly 3 weeks there. Of course, I did not stay in one city only but traveled the country extensively. I had previously been to Barcelona, so this time I decided to explore other parts of Spain. My 3 weeks in Spain itinerary includes a visit to Madrid, roaming through Andalusia and a trip to Salamanca, the university city.

Below I give a detailed itinerary of those 3 weeks I spent in Spain. If someone meticulously counts the exact number of days I spent in those cities, it won’t be 21 exactly. The reason is simple: it takes time to travel between the cities, hence the difference.

Some of the links below may be affiliate links, meaning that I will get a small commission (it won’t cost you anything!) if you click and book tours or accommodation.

Of course, this itinerary is a kind of a perfect one, but I did not follow it unconditionally. You can add tourist attractions you want to see and take out places you don’t want to spend your time on. It is just to give you an idea what you can do with your time in Spain. Just keep in mind that opening and closing times of tourist attractions in Spain depend on the season, that is in winter they close earlier, while in summer they are open until later. And don’t forget about days off!

Cities I visited

The idea for this trip came to me when I saw cheap flights to Madrid from Chisinau: 160 EUR both ways, that’s a really good deal, considering the airline I flew with – AirMoldova – is not a budget one. I thought that I might use this opportunity to explore the south of Spain with its amazing places. So, here are the cities that I visited during my solo travel in Spain, how many days I spent there and my total rough budget:

Cordoba (read about my trip to Cordoba and places to see in Cordoba) – 3 days – 240 EUR
Granada (read about my trip to Granada and places to see in Granada and the guide to buying tickets for the Alhambra) – 3 days – 188 EUR
Malaga (read about my trip to Malaga and places to see in Malaga) – 2 days – 139 EUR
Ronda (read about my trip to Ronda and places to see) – 1 day – 28,5 EUR
Seville (read about my trip to Seville and places to see in Seville) – 3 days – 242 EUR
Salamanca (read about my trip to Salamanca and things to do in Salamanca) – 3 days – 181 EUR
Madrid (read about my trip to Madrid and free things to do in Madrid) – 4 days – 257 EUR

The amounts above include transportation in and between the cities, accommodation, tickets to attractions and food. And, if I include my flight cost and the first night in Madrid before I left for Cordoba, the total budget will be roughly 1.500 EUR or 71 EUR per day. I consider I spent too much. I tried to use the possibility of free entrance to sights as much as possible, and there are another 2 categories where I could have saved money: accommodation and food.

I am not a big fan of hostels, so I booked either single rooms or Airbnb rooms whenever it was possible. I stayed in a 4-bed room in Granada and a 6-bed room in Malaga, and I genuinely enjoyed these stays thanks to the lovely ladies I met there. What I mean is that if you are comfortable with staying in a hostel room with 10 or 12 beds, you can save some money!

When it comes to food, the best way to save is to buy food at supermarkets or cook. While cooking is not always possible, supermarket food is an option, but I decided that I would try as much local food as possible and would stop going to restaurants at a later point. And that’s exactly what I did, and this is the reason why I spent so much money in Cordoba, which is actually the cheapest among these cities.

How to move between the cities

To move between the cities I used either buses or trains. Below you can find a bit more information about them:

RENFE: this is the state-owned railroad company of Spain, and the tickets can be booked nearly 3,5 months in advance. Depending on the destination, there might be more than 20 trains a day in a specific direction. I travelled with RENFE from Madrid to Cordoba and from Salamanca to Madrid, and I booked the tickets on their website.

ALSA: I love everything about ALSA buses! They depart and arrive in time, they are clean and comfortable, they have free Wi-Fi on board, they have WCs, some buses have plugs for charging phones and small screens in front of each seat to watch movies or play games or read news (just bring your headphones 🙂 ). When passengers get in, the drivers check them against a list: if you buy an online ticket, the driver will ask for your name and mark it in the list. The drawback is that the drivers don’t speak English, but that’s more of a rule in Spain than an exception.

Tickets can be booked nearly 6 months in advance. While I like the company, I could not buy the tickets on their website as my card was declined. When I phoned them, I was advised to use PayPal, and it worked like magic. Just keep in mind that you will have to pay some extra money for booking online, but I was ready to pay it just to be sure that I have a ticket. Control freak here 🙂 Anyway, this is the bus company that I can wholeheartedly recommend!

Los Amarillos (can’t find any recent info about them at the moment): unfortunately, ALSA buses don’t run to or from Ronda, at least not on the dates and to/from the cities I needed, so I had to look for another company. Los Amarillos is the one I found, but tickets can be bought only a week in advance, so I had to do it when I was in Spain already. About the buses: they are not as comfortable as ALSA buses, but are pretty decent and were on time. There was no Wi-Fi connection despite the note saying that there was one, and I am not sure that they have WCs.

Something else to mention:

• Keep in mind that some of the cities like Madrid or Sevilla have several bus stations, so make sure you are at the right one.
• Some of the routes are direct, others are not and have stops in smaller towns.
• It is not always necessary to buy tickets online in advance, I saw people buying tickets at station on the departure day, but, I guess, this depends on lots of factors as high season, destination, etc., so it is up to you to decide. I prefer to have everything booked in advance.
• I had all my tickets printed, but I suppose having them on your phone is ok as well. I think I saw one girl showing the ticket on her phone.

Some of my observations about Spain

• It is safe! I had always felt safe there, even when I was walking alone on foot at 1 AM from the airport to my rented room in Madrid, as there was no bus service. There are sellers of trinkets and other stuff but they are not as intrusive as in Paris, for example.
• The weather in October was perfect in the south of Spain! Seriously, it was usually higher than 30 degrees Celsius, but got much colder when I moved to Salamanca and Madrid, like 18 or 20 degrees. There was just one really bad day when it rained and was gloomy and cloudy, other days, even with occasional drizzle and winds, were tolerable. I would say October is perfect for visiting the south of Spain.
• Almost no one speaks English. Seriously, ticket sellers at attractions, guides in some places, waiters in restaurants, hotel staff, it was really hard to find people speaking English. Or, maybe, I am so lucky?
• Lots of restaurants open after 12:30 PM. Of course, there are places open in the morning for people to have breakfast, the options of which, in my opinion, are quite limited. Usually it is a cup of coffee with a croissant or a toast. Some places offer more varied breakfasts, I will write about them in the specific city posts. In addition, the opening hours of some restaurants are not clear to me. I suppose that locals know everything about it, but I could not really figure it out when I passed around 6 PM by a restaurant and the note on the door clearly stated that it is open from 13:30 till midnight, but it was closed! I guess some of the places close in the late afternoon to open after 7 or 8 PM. Well, the siesta thing is taken pretty seriously 🙂
• The overwhelming majority of people visiting the tourist attractions were Spanish speakers. And, while there is a difference between Latin American Spanish and Spanish, I could say that these people were actually from Spain. I do not know, maybe it was a vacation period, but at least it explains the fact that so few people speak English.
• There are so many smokers there! I mean like people of different ages are smoking everywhere (except restaurants, thanks God!), and they throw cigarette butts right to the ground. Not an exemplary behavior.
• The Spanish are in love with dogs. Seriously, I do not remember any other country with so many dog owners. One could see them the whole day in parks, with some owners having 2 or 3 dogs of different breeds.

But let’s back to my 3 weeks in Spain itinerary. I started my trip with Cordoba.

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 3 days in Cordoba

I decided to start my trip with Cordoba. It has been a dream of mine for many years, and I really wanted to see its Flower Festival. Unfortunately, I came there in October, while the festival is in May, so I did not get to see Cordoba in its full splendor, but I enjoyed the city very much. It is small and cozy, with narrow streets where pots with flowers hang on the walls and colorful bougainvillea spreads over one’s head. I would love to go back to Cordoba one day again, just to indulge again in its incredibly delicious food scene.

Why I started with Cordoba? Because my flight was to Madrid, and I decided to take Renfe train early in the morning from Atocha to Cordoba. Madrid was the last city in my itinerary, as my flight back home was from there.

I wrote a very thorough guide on my visit to Cordoba and it contains loads of useful info. And I have another piece on places to visit in Cordoba with detailed information about the tourist attractions, and it includes all the places I mention in the itinerary.

While in Cordoba, I stayed in a small hotel Funky Cordoba. My room was very simple, just a bed, a chest of drawers and a clothes rack. But I don’t see it on booking.com anymore.

And here are the places one has to visit in Cordoba at all costs (well, in my opinion, of course): Mezquita, Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and the Viana Palace.

1st day

• Mezquita – Catedral de Córdoba
• Galeria de la Inquisicion
• Capilla Mudéjar de San Bartolomé
• Casa Sefarad
• Casa Andalusí
• Walls of Cordoba
• Jardines de Agricultura/Jardines de Victoria

2nd day

• Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
• Baños del Alcázar Califal
• Windmills of Cordoba
• Puente Romano
• Puerta del Puenta
• Torre de La Calahorra
• Puente de Miraflores and Miraflores Park

3rd day

• Palacio de la Merced
• Palacio de Viana
• Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba
• Roman temple of Cordoba
• Plaza de la Corredera
• Calleja de las Flores
• Casa de Las Cabezas

If you have time, visit the Botanical Gardens: I did not manage to see them, and the reason is my laziness, not the lack of time 🙂

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 3 days in Granada

Granada, the city that is known for the majestic Alhambra is an absolute must. Frankly, it was the most crowded place I visited in Spain during these 3 weeks: there were crowds occupying every inch of the city’s main street Carrera del Darro that runs along the Alhambra.

Of course, many people, and I am one of them, go to Granada to see the famous Moorish fortress, which is a spectacular sight. The most beautiful parts of the Alhambra, in my opinion, are the Nasrid Palaces and the gardens. The gardens are amazing, with roses and other flowers I do not know the names of, pomegranate, persimmon and orange trees.

The cathedrals of Granada are worth a visit very much. And there are many observation decks to enjoy the view of Granada from above.

I took an ALSA bus that runs directly from Cordoba to Granada and it takes about 3 hours.

In Granada I stayed in a lovely hostel White Nest Hostel (I don’t see this hostel on booking.com anymore). There were 2 bunk beds in the room and a private bathroom, and everything was spotless. And I had lovely neighbours! I wrote more about it and other important things in my guide to Granada.

I have a long list of tourist attractions in Granada here. Places not to miss in Granada are the Alhambra, Ermita San Miguel Alto observation deck, the Cartuja Monastery and Basílica de San Juan de Dios.

1st day

• Abadía del Sacromonte
• Albaicín district
• Ermita de San Miguel Alto
• Mirador de San Nicolas
• The observation deck of Mezquita Mayor de Granada
• Palacio de los Olvidados

2nd day

• Alhambra
• – Generalife
• – Palacios Nazaries
• – Palace of Charles V
• El Bañuelo
• Paseo de los tristes
• Palacio de los Cordova

3rd day

• La Cartuja Monastery
• Puerta de Elvira
• Basílica de San Juan de Dios
• Monasterio de San Jerónimo
• Granada Cathedral
• Royal Chapel of Granada
• La Madraza
• Alcaiceria

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 2 days in Malaga

Malaga! I love it so much and the only thing I regret is that I had only two days there.

Malaga is a lovely coastal city with blue sea, Malagueta beach, delicious food scene, lush greenery in parks, colorful flowers and amazing samples of Moorish architecture.

As I had two days in Malaga and wanted to see its historical sights, I spent only a couple of hours at the beach. It was cold for swimming, but still the brave ones dared to bathe. Anyway, sitting on the beach and watching the waves hit the shore is a very soothing experience. Jeez, I wish I were there now!

I stayed in a room with 3 bunk beds in Alcazaba Premium Hostel. Again, I was lucky to have wonderful neighbours. The room and the private bathroom were spotlessly clean, and the guy at the reception was really nice.

To get to Malaga I took the ALSA bus from Granada. It is a direct bus and it takes about 2 hours to get there. Again, I wrote more about it in my post on my stay in Malaga.

I have a long list of Malaga’s tourist attractions and places not to miss are the Malagueta beach, Alcazaba, Gibralfaro and the central Park of Malaga.

1st day

• Santa María de la Victoria Basilica
• Capilla del Agua
• Plaza de la Merced/Torrijos Monument
• Picasso Museum Málaga
• Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga
• Palacio Episcopal
• Parroquia de los Santos Mártires
• Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón
• Plaza de la Constitucion/Fuente de Genova
• Iglesia de San Juan Bautista
• Mercado Central Atarazanas

2nd day

• Teatro Romano – Alcazaba
• Alcazaba
• Castillo de Gibralfaro: Mirador del Gibralfaro
• Parque de la Alameda
• Puerto de Malaga/ La Farola
• Playa la Malagueta

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 1 day in Ronda

I included Ronda to my bucket list just because I wanted to personally see THAT bridge and the gorge. Frankly, alongside with Cordoba, it was the main reason I chose Andalusia.

I took Los Amarillos bus from Malaga to Ronda in the morning and the evening bus of the same company to Seville. Very convenient, actually, as I felt that one day is enough for Ronda.

I fell in love with Ronda and you will do it too when you see its white buildings, old bridges, the famous gorge and the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Seriously, those mountains were the best thing I saw in Ronda!

I have a long recount of my day in Ronda including some funny things that happened to me there. And this is my itinerary:

• Mirador de Ronda
• Puente Nuevo
• Casa del Rey Moro
• Felipe V Arch
• Puente Viejo
• Baños Arabes
• Puerta de Almocábar
• Palacio de Mondragón
• El Tajo Gorge

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 3 days in Seville

Ah, Seville with its flamenco dancers! I went there to see the famous Plaza de Espana as I was totally blown away by its pictures. And it lived up to my expectations!

Only when I came to Seville, I understood that the main beauty of the city is in its many palaces. Don’t get me wrong, I love the Real Alcazar, but the Duenas Palace, Lebrija Palace and the so-called casas are those places where I left my heart. Many movies were filmed in the famous buildings of Seville, so this is another reason to visit it.

When it comes to accommodation, Seville is expensive. I searched booking.com back and forth, but I could not find anything suitable within my budget, so I turned to Airbnb. I booked a room in a Sevillian house, and the main cathedral was about 400 meters away. I have a longer guide on my 3 days in Seville here.

When it comes to places to see, all of them should be visited, especially the palaces. Frankly, I would choose to stay 4 days in Seville and explore the city at a more leisurely pace. I saw all those places I mention below (except Triana Barrio). I can’t say I rushed, but I would have loved to have 1 day more. You can see more info on Seville’s tourist attractions here.

1st day

• Basílica de la Macarena Museum
• Muralla de Sevilla
• Monasterio de Santa Paula Museum
• Palacio de las Dueñas
• Las Setas De Sevilla
• Palacio de Lebrija
• Casa de Pilatos
• Iglesia de San Ildefonso

2nd day

• Real Alcázar de Sevilla
• Torre del Oro
• Palacio de San Telmo
• Plaza de España
• Parque de María Luisa
• Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla
• Triana barrio

3rd day

• Iglesia del Salvador
• Plaza Nueva
• Catedral de Sevilla: La Giralda, Puerta del Perdón y el Patio de los Naranjos
• Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes
• Plaza del Triunfo
• Patio de Banderas
• Juderia – Santa Cruz
• Casa de Salinas

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 3 days in Salamanca

I think I told it a couple of times already, but the main reason I chose Salamanca over other cities is its university that offers courses of the Spanish language. So, my visit to Salamanca was a kind of an exploratory mission to see if I could spend a month or two there without getting bored. In the end, I decided against this idea.

When I came to Salamanca, it was the end of October already. After 30 degrees in Andalusia, it was really cold in Salamanca, cold and windy. I was not prepared for this weather, so my first outing was a failure: I had to come back to the hotel and put on everything suitable I had with me.

So, what is Salamanca? To me it is a city with thick and tall walls, the old cathedral with its medieval charm, a magnificent courtyard in the Convent of St Stephen and Jesuitas Park, a lovely park outside the historical part of the city.

To get to Salamanca I took ALSA bus from Seville. It was a comfortable but long ride, about 7 hours, but at that moment, it was the best option.

I stayed in Hostal Escala Luna and I have only good words about it (I don’t see on booking.com anymore).

More info about my 3 days in Salamanca is here, and you can find a long list of Salamanca’s tourist attractions here.

1st day

• Plaza de Anaya
• Catedral Vieja e Nueva
• Ieronimus
• Cueva de Salamanca
• Huerto de Calixto y Melibea
• Casa Lis
• The Roman Bridge

2nd day

• Iglesia de San Marcos
• Calle Zamora
• Plaza Mayor
• Iglesia de San Martín
• Convento de San Esteban
• Convento de las Dueñas
• Parque de los Jesuitas
• Plaza Colon
• Torre del Clavero

3rd day

• Patio de Escuelas
• Salamanca University
• Escuelas Menores: el cielo de Salamanca
• Museo de Salamanca
• Casa de las Conchas
• Clerecía + Scala Coeli
• Iglesia de la Purísima
• Colegio Arzobispo Fonseca

3 weeks in Spain itinerary: 4 days in Madrid

Well, Madrid is the capital of Spain, and it should definitely be visited at least once. In my case, it was overshadowed by Barcelona and I did not know much about it. Well, I knew that Prado Museum is in Madrid, but that’s it. Only when I started researching the tourist attractions, I found about the Royal Palace, Retiro Park, its amazing plazas, markets with delicious food and the Temple of Debod.

I spent 4 days in Madrid, and I am still not sure if it was enough. I saw the main places of interest, but I could probably use another day. What I missed is the cable car to the hill and I deeply regret that I did not do it. Well, another reason to come back 🙂

I am not going to recommend the hotel I stayed at as I have some objections.

I came to Madrid’s Chamartin station by train from Salamanca. It is a direct train operated by Renfe. The road took about 1,5 hours. I have a longer post with loads of useful information on Madrid and a list of free tourist attractions in the city.

Places not to miss in Madrid: the Temple of Debod, the Rosaleda, the Royal Palace and the Botanical Garden.

1st day

• Plaza Mayor
• Mercado de San Miguel
• Sabatini Gardens
• Palacio Real de Madrid
• Almudena Cathedral
• Muralla Arabe and Parque Emir Mohamed
• Segovia Bridge
• Real Basilica de San Francisco el Grande

2nd day

• Climb to the 9th story of the El Corte Ingles Shopping Center for the free view of Madrid
• Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales
• Plaza de España
• Egyptian Temple of Debod
• La Rosaleda
• San Antonio de la Florida Chapel
• Teleferico

3rd day

• Plaza de Colón
• Museo Arqueológico Nacional
• Mercado San Anton
• Plaza de Cibeles
• Puerta de Alcala
• El Retiro Park (a half of the park)
• San Jerónimo el Real
• Museo Nacional del Prado

4th day

• Gran Vía
• Park at Paseo del Prado
• Maritime Museum
• Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum
• Royal Botanical Garden
• El Retiro Park (the other half of the park)

That’s all for my 3 weeks in Spain itinerary. I hope you were able to read it to the end 🙂